Some of you who know me might have heard me at least once, in the past two years, complaining about how nowadays I cannot find time to fully connect to what’s happening during the fashion months – this connection consisting in browsing through every single show (there are a few hundreds, in total, but at least half of them are, luckily, quite forgettable) and saving the looks that I liked (which usually still pile up in impressive numbers). So now I’m most surprised to see that I am up-to-date, I went through the first few dozens shows, I’ve got lists and observations on things that I like or things that inevitably annoyed me, I’ve begun putting up collages and posts for the blog. I don’t exactly know how, I am, how else, terribly busy and never get to find time for 5 inch until the weekend calls out for my otherwise secluded freedom. I have no idea whether I will finally manage to put up with the rhythm of fashion weeks, and what’s best is that now I neither care that much anymore, so I’m happily doing what I can. Cheers to that.
It’s always good to start things off with 10 Crosby, and as it happens that he is among the firsts to show during NYFW, he’s my first stop – and what an optimistic one that is! The things I initially notice in a collection are shapes, colors and accessories – particularly, shoes. I must tell you, in case you haven’t noticed, that Derek Lam has a perfect sense of proportion, and typical to his 10 Crosby line is a cool ease that immediately gets you wanting the exact shapes, cuts lengths and textures, in your wardrobe. Coats and skirts made of brushed mohair in colorful stripes, blending into one another in a degrade effect, were supposedly inspired by a particular type of pottery. They went just perfectly along with pink neoprene and faux fur. Also, long sweaters with split sides (the latter seem to be conveyed into a ‘micro-trend’) covered up the high waists of midi skirts which ended anywhere between right above the knee and the half-calf. Rubber platform boots seem to be a fall staple, I’d get a pair in every length and color – if I could. All in all, chic and tremendously versatile stuff. As usual.
I remember A Detacher for channeling the most curiously ill-fitting shapes, somehow put together to an almost cool effect. At some point, I started to get it – and like it. By nature, Mona Kowalska’s clothes are meant to be worn, gracing the streets – and then she hits you with a sweater with a double pair of sleeves, wrapped around the hips and tied in the front, or with a pair of cotton-wool shorts over trackpants, or with that hilarious ‘drug mule’ jersey dress. Not to mention the numerous variations on the skirt-over-pants theme, which was prevalent in the last few days (one in four shows featured this quirky-but-hard-to-pull-off mix, some made it cool, others, just clumsy). Let me brag a little and tell you that I’ve been wearing skirts or dresses over pants in the last couple of winters, and I was quite pleased to see how my intuition played out, at this one. Fine, I’m joking, but I do wear stuff like this. Plenty. Hah. Now I really want to get those 3 pounds off and wear shorts over pants – no joke, I might show you if anything works out.
While prepping the draft of this post, I was filling the gaps between collages with words such as this: kfjksjglosdjkhyp;riupokt. However, when I uploaded what seems to be my favorite collection, by now, I wrote something like “Araks is the best. wonderfuuuuuuuuuul”. And this is my most vocal and final opinion of the above outfits, with their wonderfully playful volumes, perfectly understated colors, polka dots, bold bagginess, clever styling and a dreamlike air of such urban, down-to-earth appeal, that it makes you think, where the hell can you get clothes like these, some that you can wear anywhere and feel fantastic while doing so – this is what I think urban sophistication looks like. I didn’t even mind the shoes – they inspire a more polished, high fashion version of Amelie. Which is not a bad thing at all. By the way, if you don’t find anything of this collection wearable at all, than you know for sure that we’re not barely close to a similar fashion aesthetic. Which, then again, I don’t consider to be a bad thing at all.
My feelings towards this outing were at first admittedly heading towards repulsion, but once I succeeded to keep my eyes entirely off those bloody shoes and problematic hair and makeup (yeah, I was also surprised I actually pay attention to such details), I was easily won over. By what exactly? By plenty – start with the intentionally slouchy, but wonderfully natural silhouettes, hugging the body loosely, go on with the yet-again-sloppy layering and odd pairings (it took me a while to understand that the lower part in the orange ensemble actually consists of a sleeveless jersey dress, its straps pulled down and folded over, worn as a skirt). I was infatuated with the likes of dresses-over-dresses, (shirt)dresses-over-skirts (no pants here) and by the small details which spark things up – such as knee-high socks worn next to pieces ending just at the knee, leaving not more than an inch or two of skin in sight, and those mostly while in motion. Inspiring, indeed.
Now I’m off to compile the following posts, I already have a bunch of photos put together – and I see they’ve just uploaded Jill Stuart on style.com (where I also take the pictures from), I’m curious to see what’s next. We’ll catch up in the days to come.
- Look at me. Now look away.
- Every time you close your eyes